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MTOC 1949 - Chapter 9 Gentlemen's Garments Waistcoat Cutting - The Basis of Construction
Diagram 9 The function of construction lines in the cutting of garment patterns has been stated in the chapter on trousers. Though the present chapter deals primarily with the cutting of waistcoats, there is sufficient basic similarity between those garments, jackets, and coats for their construction lines to be discussed together. On this composite diagram are shown the main construction and style guide lines used in the drafting of all the garments dealt with in this and the next following chapters. Explanation O''' is the starting-point, with the back construction line running straight down from it and the first horizontal line squared from it. All other horizontals are also squared from the back line, with the exception of the line II, which has a special reference to waistcoats, to be described later. : '''I is the basis for the shoulder slope. : 2''' is the across-back position and the basis for back sleeve pitch. : '''3 is the depth of scye position and the location of chest line. : 4''' is the natural waist; '''5 the fashion waist (for body-coats) ; and 6''' is the average length of the waistcoat back. : '''7 is the hip (or seat) line. : 8''' is the line marking the full length of the average lounge jacket or reefer. (Lengths for body-coats and overcoats will be established below line '''8, a similar line being struck across at the correct position.) The main horizontal lines have now been enumerated. The other lines will next be described and the location of the different points detailed. : 9''' is the basic point for the back neck; '''9x (¾" above 9''') IS the back neck point. : '''10 marks the width position of the across-back. : 12 marks the front of scye. : 13 is the squaring position for establishing the front neck point. : 14 locates the front centre line, which is shown squared down from the chest line (3-14). : 15 is the basic point for regulation of the shoulder-seam length and the height of shoulder point. : From 15 a line is struck to the front neck point, to be used as a guide for the slope of front shoulder. On this line, 16 marks the position from which the actual slope of the seam is made. 17 marks the correct distance from the front neck point, the forepart shoulder point of coats and waistcoats being dropped slightly, as indicated. : The dash lines from gx to a point out from and above 15, and from 16 to the point below 17, show the average shoulder slopes of back and forepart. (Fuller explanation of this will be given in the drafting instructions which follow.) : Mention must now be made of II, 8x, and M'''. : The line '''II-II is located at the position of the average waistcoat length. : The points of the forepart would fall on this line, in the case of a standard single-breasted, no-collar waistcoat. The lengths of d.b. and dress waistcoats would be higher, according to the style designed. : 8x marks the position of the front part of the bottom edge of lounges and reefers; M''' marks the end of the forepart sideseam in these garments. All the locations so far described will be used in the various drafts which follow in the sections devoted to waistcoats, coats, body-coats, and overcoats. Application of Supplementary Measures The dot-and-dash lines which appear at different parts of the diagram show the directions of the tape when applying the direct measures referred to in the chapter on measuring. : The line '''A-A, from 0''' to '''3, is the depth of scye. : B-B, running from 3''' over the back shoulder and continuing down the forepart to '''12, is the over-shoulder measure. C-C is the front shoulder measure, the amount of the back neck being shown in the extension above the front neck point. : D-D is the across-chest measure, from the front of scye at 12 to the centre line at 14. One more point remains to be explained-the unnumbered one above 12. This is the location basis for the run of the front scye, in both waistcoats and coats. Its use will be shown clearly in the drafts. Note: In all the drafts shown throughout this section allowance is made for ¼" seams, except where otherwise stated. Additional seams (that is, nonstandard ones) will be specially noted.